A Cup of Turmeric a Day Keeps the Doctor...To Stay?
Updated: Dec 26, 2018
This place was a total surprise, and in the best way possible! Neither of us had ever heard of this city until we found out that our San Blas Adventures boat tour ended there. There are no cars in Capurgana, and the people here still use horse and cart as a means of transportation. We opted to stay a bit out of town at an Airbnb, which turned out to be an excellent choice. We stayed with a lovely couple originally from France and Italy. They run an “eco-lodge” about 30 minutes from the main area in Capurgana. The property is amazing; they grow every fruit you can imagine. The place runs completely on solar power. The house feels like a treehouse, with lots of natural wood, a swing in the open-concept kitchen, and outdoor bamboo showers (although Devon preferred to bathe and swim in the secluded river behind the house).
We were totally spoiled by their fresh ingredients and cooking. Picture this: when we arrived, we were hot and sweaty and salty from 4 days on the San Blas Islands. Our hosts made us a cold fresh lemonade with turmeric. Drinking this refreshing lemonade with ingredients straight from their garden, in the cutest little coconut cup, was heaven. Breakfasts were huge and so filling - we ate freshly baked bread, eggs from their chicken, bananas from the banana trees, hot chocolate with chocolate from their cocoa trees which they had learned to process, mango and guava marmalade (also from their garden)...need I say more?
Each night we would fall asleep (or be kept awake) listening to a symphony of sounds from animals and insects. Thankfully we had a mosquito net over the bed to keep away any and all of the bugs. One night, the cats got into the leftover cake, and must have been on a sugar high because they were super vocal and wanting to climb into bed with us and play. They even climbed up over our mosquito net causing it to fall down! We gave them a dirty look the next morning for keeping us up until 4 in the morning, but what can you do.
One of the most interesting parts was interacting with our hosts and conversing about life in Colombia, and specifically in Capurgana. We discussed taxes, politics, drug culture, attitudes and beliefs of Colombians and foreigners, and Pablo Escobar of course.
We spent our days exploring different trails, waterfalls, and fresh water swimming holes. This place was hard to say goodbye to...but it was off to Medellin for us next!